For Autumn/Winter 2026, Nocturne, a.v. vattev continues its exploration of freedom and refined aesthetic rebellion. Rooted in the brand’s ongoing dialogue between the 1970s and 1990s—eras defined by liberation, sensuality, and understated chic—the collection expands this vision through the lens of one of the most radical figures in performing arts history: Rudolf Nureyev.

Nureyev transformed ballet by placing the male dancer at its emotional and physical center. His movement was defined by sharp precision and controlled intensity, where discipline met instinct. This balance mirrors a.v. vattev’s approach to design, where structure and control coexist with sensuality and expression.

AW26 channels Nureyev’s presence both on and off stage. His fierce self-expression, uncompromising individuality, and unapologetic personal style inform silhouettes that frame the body with intention.

At the heart of the collection is a newly developed python-inspired textile created in-house. Appearing on leather trousers and polos, the textile features a hand-applied front panel embellished with laser-cut leather petals. Each element is individually layered and inserted to form a tactile snakeskin effect, inspired by Nureyev’s appearance in a striking snakeskin-patterned outfit during an appearance on The Dick Cavett Show.

Nureyev’s rehearsal wardrobe informs several key pieces. Wrapped high-neck polos, close-fitted beanies with Viper lace closure details, and oversized pleated track trousers reference the dancer’s off-duty uniform. Executed in classic, refined fabrics such as check wool and pinstriped matte satin, these garments reinforce the collection’s focus on the working body, dressed not for spectacle, but for purpose and precision.

For the first time, a.v. vattev introduces a fully realised womenswear offering derived directly from its menswear signatures. Presented side by side, male and female looks mirror one another in strength and clarity. Equally powerful and autonomous they form a unified wardrobe language.

The season revisits and evolves several signature pieces. The collar scarf shirt returns with a band collar and detachable semi-spread collar scarf, embellished with silver stud detailing. The Gurkha belt is reworked with a new closure system featuring double silver buckles and a wider belt construction integrated directly into trousers and jackets, reinforcing both function and attitude.

The Viper cardigan is reimagined through a classic Fair Isle pattern, exemplifying how a.v. vattev deconstructs familiar elements of the men’s wardrobe and reconstructs them through the brand’s distinctive lens. Tradition is reshaped through technique, texture, and proportion.

Tailoring remains central to the collection. A boxy, cropped blazer features a contemporary wing collar inspired by classic men’s shirting, one of the most formal collar styles in menswear, historically associated with evening dress. Designed with a covered multi-button front and signature a.v. double belt loops, the piece balances ceremony with modernity. The return of the Collar Belt jacket further reinforces the brand’s commitment to continuity through evolution.

AW26 is not a reinvention, but a progression. A study of movement and control, softness and rigor, a.v. vattev’s vision of dressing the body as a site of expression, power, and freedom.